Scale Plastic Model Thread

The MnM Scale Model Thread!

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SPC Forum

Can gunpla also go here?

I should get another Zaku Sniper and give it a proper paint job. ):

I feel like Coty will soon find this thread.

thinking about taking my brothers '94 civic.. restoring it (it did have a K24/RSX dash swap) putting the B16 back in it and doing a dumped flush build for it

I'll have something to add here soon. :3

I got a 1/24 Tamiya R33 Kit today, will be a slow progress as I still need paint and modelling knives/blades/whatevers. Fuckin' hobby store wont sell solvents and modelling knives/blades to under 18's. SMH.

I've still got a Vertex kitted Aristo, the paint on it is god awful 'cause I had no idea what I was doing. Might sand it down and give it another go seeing as it's summer now and I got more free time.

Yup. Same policy here. Need to be accompanied by an adult and will only sell TO the adult with you. Used to get it all the time in the auto parts store. Young kids walk in, make a bee-line straight to the spraypaint rack, and ask if we have any other colors. I reply with "how old are you" and they leave.

Clearly not looking to use it for anything legal.

Cougar, don't sand. Get some DOT 3 brake fluid and give it a bath overnight. Take it out in the morning and try to scrub the paint off with a toothbrush. If it doesn't want to come off, put it in for a few more hours and keep checking.

Sanding down paint can also sand down details and leaves paint in the panel lines, making them fill in when you repaint later, losing the lines of the doors and fenders and stuff.

Also, to disassemble a model without breaking it, completely submerge it in water and while it's still dripping wet, put it in the freezer. The water will freeze and push the glued parts apart, usually without snapping them.

I wonder what colour I wanna paint the 33 in doe. I was thinking a gunmetal grey body, black interior with white accents in the interior. If i'm feeling risky, I might go all out driftcar and chop the front end and tube it. Probably tube it with white tube of summin.

Ad the Rad wrote:

Cougar, don't sand. Get some DOT 3 brake fluid and give it a bath overnight. Take it out in the morning and try to scrub the paint off with a toothbrush. If it doesn't want to come off, put it in for a few more hours and keep checking.

Sanding down paint can also sand down details and leaves paint in the panel lines, making them fill in when you repaint later, losing the lines of the doors and fenders and stuff.

Also, to disassemble a model without breaking it, completely submerge it in water and while it's still dripping wet, put it in the freezer. The water will freeze and push the glued parts apart, usually without snapping them.

Thanks for the heads up dude, I'll definately give that a go!
I could actually do with doing the freezer thing, I kinda fudged up the rear suspension haha. Might look into chopping the suspension a bit too. It sits low enough now, just want to tuck a bit more tyre. Plus from the thousands of tutorials I've seen it doesn't look too complicated.

All I know is the Tamiya R33 kit is amazing. It's a rare bird without an engine (curbside) which is odd for Tamiya, but it is amazingly molded and the R33 wheels are spot on compared to Fujimi's. I only got as far as painting all the light lenses, but it looked like a well-molded, laid-back kinda kit to build - all of Tamiya's kits are amazingly well-produced, but the R33 just looks like it falls together, haha.

Yeah, I was a little confused when I saw that there was no engine. :/

But overall, I love how good the wheels look and how amazing the parts look.

I love painting details, haha. This is as far as I got with my last R33 kit, an Aoshima GTS-T



SKIDDY TIRES!

This is the Aristo in question.
I promise it looks even worse than it does there.

Haha, you should see my early paintjobs, dude. We all start rough, bro.

The banner for the club me and a friend started on SPC back in like 2005. We were the only members! His C33 on the right, my R32 on the left.


And the most recent shot I have it finished, from like 2009. I have no idea where it is now, haha.

Ad, what tools would be a cheap but a decent way to paint?

I use Tamiya spraypaint cans for color. The little ones. I use Revell spray primer for base (light or dark depending on the lightness or darkness of the color you want) and Tamiya spray clear to protect it all. Then I get blue painter's tape for masking off things like the window trims and other details, and usually use Warhammer paints for the underbody/engine bay. Stuff like Boltgun Metal is awesome for that bare-metal look.

To paint, say, a body, I would sand the body shell down with a fine (smoother) grit sandpaper, working out all the mold lines left behind when it was molded, and roughing it up just enough for the primer to grab. Then, run it under some room-temp water to get all the sanding dust off of it. Pat it dry and let it sit for an hour or so to make sure it air dries nicely.

Next, do short and swift "spritzy" passes with the spray primer. Never hold in one spot, never get too close, and only press the nozzle in just long enough for your pass. It's hard to explain, but you wanna do very light passes that basically mist the body shell with paint. This is the best way I've found to leave an even, uniform coat. Keep misting in very light passes until it evens out, but don't lay on too much at once or it will become too thick while wet and leave runs. Runs suck. ALSO be sure to store your spray paint at room temp. Cold paint will sputter and leave splats, and even an even coat when wet will dry and leave what is lovingly referred to as "orange peel" - the coat of paint will have the texture of the skin of an orange, and is a bitch to have to even out with sandpaper.

Check for things you missed, like some mold lines that may still be showing up (easier to see once under primer) and let it dry and hit it with the fine grit again. Once happy, do one more misty coat with the primer and let it air dry for a day or more.

For the base color coat, do the same thing. Mist it on, and let it dry. Build it up until you are happy with it (when it's dry - wet paint is hardly ever the perfect shade you want) and check it up under sunlight for the color. Once you get it to this point, you're either done or ready for clearcoat or the next step.

If you're brave (I would wait until you've painted a few kits before you get to this part) you can check your paint for any things that bug you. Orange peel? A run? A speck of dust stuck in the paint? Now you learn to wet sand and polish. I'll point you at a better tutorial than I can give you next time I have the time. There's some more stuff I'd like to tell you about prep before you get to that, haha.

Either way, when you're done with the base color, use the painter's tape to mask off your window trims and other details, and spray or brush paint them based on your preference. Matte black works excellent for window rubbers.

Thanks mang, I'll pick up some primer and paints some time soon.

i should start my restoration soon.. my problem is, i chopped the hell out of the engine bay for the K24 swap and even more when i turboed it

heres pics of my mess..

Lel.

Does anyone know what this is for?



It was in the plastic bag with my wheels.

Could it be grill mesh or the mesh that goes behind the front bumper?

Yeah I was thinking that, but it SMELLS LIKE RUBBER OMG LETS GET HIGH?

Yes, you cut that into the shape you need and glue it into the grille area. Louis has it 156.4% right.